Why the Traditional Caff is Here to Stay in Stoke
Forget avocado toast and soy milk lattes – swing by one of Stoke's greasy spoons for a full English or chips covered in sauce from a squeezy bottle instead, says Mel Osborne
It’s a grey February morning and I’m walking through Newcastle. I want breakfast. But not just any old breakfast. I pass coffee lounges, bistros, and various chains. I stroll past Wetherspoons. As lovely as these all are, there is a type of establishment I’m after: the greasy spoon cafe. The name may not sound great, but anyone of a certain age in the UK knows that nothing beats a good, wholesome, affordable meal in a greasy spoon. Whether you want to set yourself up for a busy day’s work ahead, are nursing a terrible hangover, or are treating the kids, this UK institution offers a solution for everyone. However, a recent article in a national newspaper indicated that residents of London are fighting to preserve their cafes amid a takeover of chain street coffee shops.
I eventually stumble on The Midway Cafe off the main high street behind Newcastle’s Boots. As I open the door, I’m greeted with a friendly welcome by Tonia and Sylvia. I quickly place my order and take my seat on the high stools while I wait for my food. “We get a mixture of people in,“ says Tonia, Midway’s manager. “We have a lot of builders, getting their breakfast before a day’s work. They requested Spam on their cooked breakfasts so we got it in for them.”
The bespoke approach of a greasy spoon is what appeals compared to the generic offerings of many big coffee brands. The Midway is new to the area, opening in November 2025. The upstairs is being furnished to be a night-time steakhouse but offers the advantage of more seating in the day. It’s a prime spot for college and university students as well and offers 10 per cent off. If you are a picky eater, Tonia has got your back and professes that she will prepare food just as customers like it. She admitted that while they offer plenty of traditional meals such as filled oatcakes and baked potatoes, they also serve up protein-focused meals and even matcha tea. Gluten-free options and vegetarian dishes are additionally available.
PAVILION TEA ROOM TAKEOVER
While cities regarded as ‘progressive’ may be fighting to preserve independent cafes, Staffordshire understands what people actually need, which is why seeing new establishments being set up, like the Midway, is refreshing. Burslem Community Hub CiC, meanwhile, took over the Pavilion Tea Room in Burslem Park last year.
It offers a selection of home-cooked meals but, most importantly to a dog-loving area like Staffordshire, you can bring your pooch along with you, too. Manager Emma Smith said, “We are family-run. We know our customers and welcome them into our tearoom family.” She adds that the cafe will soon have its own Burslem Park bees, from which they will make honey.
I took my husband and our Cavachon, Lizzie, who enjoys a cafe and a fuss. She wasn’t disappointed, and her tail was wagging as soon as we walked through the door. My husband enjoyed a sausage sarnie, while I had my standard Americano coffee. Dog-loving Emma came over and asked if she could offer Lizzie a dog treat, which she was more than delighted to receive.
It’s a gorgeous place to sit with views of the park all around. They offer wholesome home-cooked meals and since re-opening have entertained regulars who pop in on their dog walk. Emma said, “Even someone popping in to have a coffee makes all the difference to us.”
As a CIC, it has been collaborating with businesses to offer free meals for school kids. They also recognise the importance of friendly cafes to reduce isolation and improve well-being. In March, a community clear-up is planned in the park. The focus is on community and collective responsibility.
However, the cafes mentioned aren’t without their struggles. Over at the Midway, they are battling against big chain coffee shops and also don’t have the funds to splash out on expensive billboard advertising. A lack of events in Burslem Park, meanwhile, means that the Pavilion Tea Room don’t always get the footfall they should. To combat this, Emma revealed they have plans for artisan market stalls and car boot sales.
“We are family-run. We know our customers and welcome them into our tearoom family”
Emma Smith, manager of Pavilion Tea Room, Burslem Park
ENSURING BUSINESS
So what does help keep a cafe afloat? When enquiring about the best cafes to visit among my friends, many recommended Captain Kooks. It’s been located on Moorland Road for the past 30 years, yet surprisingly I had never visited. I took my family along (my husband and two teenagers) to sample the offerings.
This large diner off Sandbach Road has a large menu offering everything from a cooked breakfast to liver and onions. They offer a table service and gave us a bit of time to trawl through the vast menu. My husband and son chose a chicken burger and chips while my daughter and I shared a bowl of chips with a cup of builder’s tea. The cafe is sparkling clean and fairly busy. It offers parking at the front and a takeaway service. Food was served quickly, and came to a total of £25 including drinks. In comparison, a similar meal in London was nearly double the cost for two of us a few weeks back. One customer we spoke to, Lawrence Solamani, an accountant from Birches Head who’s been a patron for many years, said: “There’s no better treatment for a hangover than a full English breakfast with a cup of tea.”
Another established cafe in Stoke is Jay’s Cafe, a favourite of mine when I lived there that’s now under new ownership. We were greeted by a lovely smiley gentleman; English wasn’t his first language, but he was the perfect host, serving us quickly and delivering filling food to the table. “It costs more to just have a coffee!” he teased as he took our order. My husband chose the breakfast-filled sandwich, which kept him full for hours. I enjoyed the frothy coffee, a greasy caff standard where milk is warmed up with a spoonful of coffee that makes a comforting drink on a cold rainy day.
The cafe was busy and through observation we saw couples and friends enjoy a midday catch-up. The cafe boasted a five-star rating and certainly looked very clean.
NOT SO GREASY AFTER ALL
It’s worth noting that although many such cafes have been given the nickname of ‘greasy spoons’, none of the establishments reflect this. They are clean and immaculate. The food may be made with a bit of oil, but that’s as far as it goes. The big chains may offer a cooked meal and a variety of food, but what they don’t offer is a sense of community.
In a world where more than 49% of the UK population report feeling lonely occasionally according to the Campaign to End Loneliness, cafes are a solution, offering nourishment and company on tap. I can absolutely see why Londoners are trying to protect these institutions. Ethically speaking, you know your money is better spent in an independent establishment, as in turn they source produce from local independent suppliers. All the cafes I visited sold our local delicacy of oatcakes, thus supporting our local oatcake makers.
For now, the greasy cafe seems to be a safe institution in the area but that is down to us as customers and how we choose to spend our money. Is the reward card stamp of a chain cafe really worth more than the welcome and value for money you get from the more traditional cafes? Pop in, say hello, and leave with a smile on your face.
“There’s no better treatment for a hangover than a full English breakfast with a cup of tea”
Lawrence Solamani, customer, Captain Kooks
About the author, Mel Osborne
Freelance writer Mel Osborne came to Staffordshire University in 1995 from a rural village outside Birmingham. After graduating from Film, TV and Radio Studies in 1998, she decided to stay in Stoke and still lives here today with her husband and teenage children. Mel writes for various local publications and has been a theatre reviewer for the past 10 years. She is also a professional actor and theatre maker with a passion for art education. In her spare time, she enjoys long mystery walks with her pet dog.
Have something to say about Mel’s story, or your views on greasy spoon cafes in Stoke-on-Trent? Leave your comments below!